A Look Back

My 1939 Union Label Suit With 40s Fedora

     When I first started this blog, it was a class assignment to write on a topic of my choice; I did this for two classes actually; and it's been really fun.
   
     Ever since I started, I thought about continuing even after my classes, and I have decided that I will continue to blog.

     Although I've done some writing for my school paper before, I'd never blogged, and so it was a new experience. I find it much more fun than newspaper work though, because I get to post all my own photos and keep what I want rather than force editing. I also get to promote the blog on the Facebook page, and I get to see the stats for the blog.

      Aside from all that, I like the idea of providing a service to those who seek it. I started the blog with the purpose of creating a source within the reenacting community for civilian wear, since most is military. I also started for those interested in business and formalwear, so I wanted to give a chance for people to find better business and formal clothing. I think period clothing, suits, can be used for wearing even in these modern times; I think they look better, and they are definitely made better. I think that those who enjoy reenacting would especially like to have some period civilian clothing, both for events and just whatever occasion they want to dress up for. Even if it's just for wearing a suit everyday, which I used to do, until I started to re-organize my wardrobe(which I'm still doing).

     Some have told me of their enjoyment in the blog, which I greatly am honored by. I'm glad that I can write on things that people actually want to hear about, and provide them with sources to find what they are looking for. Thank you for reading my posts, there are more coming for the future!

     I like how older clothes are more practical. I grew up on older movies and spent a lot of time with my granddad growing up, so I've been heavily influenced to like these things, but it has long been my choice to continue loving them.

     Just as I have continued to love those things, so have I continued to love writing this blog, and as long as I can think of relevant things to write.

    Thank you so much for following along and reading what I have to say! I'll do my best to not disappoint for the future either!

My Late 1940s/early 1950s  Army Air Corps Officer's Uniform with WWII Private Purchase Hat I Borrowed

Hair Care

Danny Kaye

     Although most men today don't seem to pay much attention to how they keep their hair, there was a time when most did, just as much as the clothes they wore. Getting regular haircuts and keeping your hair neat, clean and combed was the norm, whether you chose to put product in your hair or leave it natural. Keeping your hair neat was almost considered an essential, with very, very, few men letting their hair grow out to lengths that were not considered clean cut. 

     Styles varied from decade to decade, but the general concept remained the same, and it isn't until the mid and late 1960s that we see long hair on men, something which had been out of society since the 19th Century, and even then, hair was generally kept up to some degree. 

Clark Gable

     The general style is to have your hair cut short in the back and on the sides. You can ask a barber or stylist to go high and tight, and tell them what kind of shading you want. You can bring a picture of what you want as well. You'll also want to keep it long on the top, so you have something to comb. 

     Generally I recommend going to a barber, because they are trained to specifically cut men's hair, and they use clippers instead of scissors, however, there are some stylists who can do just as good of a job; the man I go to is a stylist, but gives me my haircuts more like a barber; better than many barbers I've been to actually. In general though, a barber should be better suited for your needs, but if you find a good stylist, keep to them; sometimes bringing a picture of the haircut you want also helps whoever is cutting your hair.

Something you can also do, although it is not necessary, is have them cut/shave a part onto your part, to make it more defined, like Clark Gable below:

     Typically your regular part should work though; I don't get my part helped at all, and it looks very nice. Your part should be straight, not jagged, and should look very neat and clean overall. 

     Your sideburns should be neatly kept, and if you're going for an older look, should be short, and your hair shouldn't touch your ears. This may require you to trim your sideburns yourself every now and then, but you should be fine. 

   
     As far as hair product is concerned, you'll want to avoid gel or spray; neither are that great, and there are better products for a better result. If you want your hair to be firm, use a pomade, either from Murray's Hair Glo Pomade or Dapper Man Pomade, although you can find it on eBay for a cheaper price. My personal favorite and preference however, is Brylcreem, which leaves hair soft and able to be restyled at will. You can go to Wal-Mart and get some for around $5.00 or $6.00. I used to use Vitalis Hair Tonic, a liquid solution, but found the Brylcreem to be superior. Avoid Groom & Clean; I found out from an older gentleman that it doesn't work nearly as well as Brylcreem, and the extra dollar or two for Brylcreem is worth it. 

Cary Grant

     As long as you maintain your hair and just follow vintage examples, you should be fine. Right now there's a retro/vintage craze going on, but most examples I see aren't very accurate, as they are modern interpretations, so I wouldn't follow them; instead, try to stay classic. 

     Also, just as a note, some men, not many, did not part their hair, rather opting to just comb it back. One such man was James Stewart in his early career, like in The Philadelphia Story. 

If you do choose to part your hair, which I hope you do, since it makes maintaining hair easier and fits the look of being neat, and of the era, there are different parts you can do; there are side parts, middle and upper, all depending on your hairline and what you would like done. If you're not one with much hair, keeping it neat and clean was still an essential, and men still combed it back, rather than forward. Never comb your hair forward. 

William Powell with a more upper, not quite middle, part. 

     Whatever you may choose, rest assured that your hair is a very important part of your impression, one of the most important, and if you get that right, people will notice. That, and it'll probably look nice. Not many men take as much care of their hair as in times past, so people notice neatly kept hair that looks good. You shouldn't plaster it down, but it should be managed well. It should have volume, if you can. If you have curly or wavy hair, you can create a very nice look with product. 

Dick Powell

     If you have any comments or suggestions, feel free to say something here or below. May great favor be upon your head of hair in your searches! And remember, your hair can look suave and debonair! 

Cary Grant

Formal Attire: Evening Tails

Fred Astaire

     One of the most iconic and yet one of the most rarely worn items of formalwear, evening tails were once a staple of high society, any evening ball, formal parties, the opera supper clubs, etc. There were many, many places people went to in full dress tails. 
    Since the 1950s though, the white tie dress code(for regular tuxedos, black tie dress code is the term)has become less and less common, until today when it has been so rarely worn, etiquette on wearing them has come to an all time low. 

Even in the highest of places...

     Now this has nothing to do with their politics, but it has everything to do with how our society has increasingly allowed more and more lax standards on all levels of dress. White tie is the strictest dress code. There are no exceptions and there is very little variation. Now however, it is most widely available through rentals, very atrocious rentals. The horrible thing is though, the above picture is not of rental variation....it is of a current President and a Presidential Candidate, who aren't even within dress code. If you notice, you'll see trouser-lines below the waistcoat that show the shirt, a shirt with a turn-down collar that isn't even a white tie shirt, , waistlines too low, a waistcoat too long, and just general atrociousness. 

     Why though? I think it's because there aren't any enforced dress codes anymore, nor are there any places of etiquette to teach anyone how to dress, as there once were. People just don't seem to care anymore, which is very sad; we've reached a point where we have become so lax, that even recreational clothing is sometimes replaced by bed-wear in public; but I digress....

Fred Astaire in Top Hat 1935

                                                   Now that's more like it! 
     Just to clarify, I'm not trying to be a snob; it's hard to come by a lot of this now, and most people don't have much choice in buying(unless it's vintage)or when they rent; however, people who are millionaires and above like our most resent presidential candidates have no excuse in dressing poorly; they can afford it. It is a combination of celebrities/politicians either dressing how they want to or not caring, and companies making clothes which has further lead to the downfall of what we wear. You may not be able to choose what you rent, and the rental company may not choose the styles, but the designers have a choice. And that choice is usually to make things look trendy. 

Douglas Fairbanks Jr.

     What should you look for though? 
     Well what one should look for is a tailcoat with a closely cut waist and properly cut shoulders, the trousers should be exceptionally high waisted, with buttons for suspenders. The trousers should preferably have a double silk braid/stripe down the leg, however, this is very hard to come by nowadays, and I don't even have trousers like that for my tails. It has become more optional, but still preferable. Your tailcoat should be made of wool. Buy vintage. They're the best. 1930s and 1940s tailcoats are particularly the best cut and made. They flatter the figure like no other era of tailcoat. 

Fred Astaire

     You'll also need a stiff bib front shirt with a detachable collar(make sure it isn't a short collar, as they were more for servants), collar studs, mother of pearl shirt studs with gold(maybe not real though)trim and cufflinks(although you are not limited to this swatch, it is what is traditionally worn). 

"Deco" Starched Bib Front Shirt From RJW Shirts

Stiff Front Shirt From Darcy Clothing

You should have a white marcella/cotton pique waistcoat with waistcoat studs. To go along with this you should(as you should with black tie tuxedos)have silk hose or just non-silk long black socks(hose); of course you should also have either lace up patent leather shoes or pumps.

Formal Pump/Court Shoe

     A note on court shoes, you need to have them in your exact size or they will not work at all. One of the reasons they fell to the lace-up shoe was that even one in your exact size slips a little bit when walking. They are probably one of the rarest choices in formalwear, but will get attention and will be a nice difference between everyone else's lace-up shoes. 
  
   Your bowtie should be white, and starched, along with the waistcoat too. The bow tie should be made of marcella/cotton pique. The shirt front can, but does not have to be, as it has only been a trend and not a rule. You should also probably get a silk top hat, but can probably get away without having one. Make sure to also have a pocket square, either made from linen(as I hear is the correct white tie choice)or silk. A flower on the lapel also lends to a very nice look too. You can get silk ones at Gentleman's Gazette, rather than a real one that will wither. 

Evening Tails in Midnight Blue 1930s

    

      Your ensemble should look something like this ^  

    Often, the preference is to have the tails in midnight blue, but having tails is a special thing in and of itself; just make sure that you don't mix and match with regular black and midnight blue, or else it'll be obvious in the color difference. 
     

More Modern Tails from Brooks Brothers

     You can find some the accessories at Darcy Clothing, including the much coveted waistcoat studs. The site has lots of other white tie accessories, and I highly recommend it. Be careful of the waistcoat studs though; I'd recommend tightening them once on, as they are libel to slip off; I had this experience myself. I suppose you could also weld them together, but you may not want to in case you get other stud sets. 

William Powell, Myrna Loy and Asta, in a promotion shot for The Thin Man

     Some other great places to look into for buying your tails and set are eBay, RubyLane, and Etsy. Sometimes you'll have to wait around and just keep looking, but you'll eventually find something for a good price. 
     In case you're wondering how to clean the starched items, Darcy has recommendations on their page for the stiff front shirt,(also called a boiled shirt) and if you don't want to go to the trouble, you can get a washable stiff front shirt. They also have washable stiff collars. You can also go to RJW Shirts, although I'm not sure what they are like, but they seem like they're worth a shot! They don't have as many accessories as Darcy, but they have more shirt variations and have some different collars. 

A More Modern Example of Properly Done Tails

     As seen throughout these pictures, your shirt cuff can be very generously exposed. It's supposed to be with tails as it is one of the decorative pieces of the outfit. Jacket sleeves are also usually a bit thinner than those of a regular tuxedo or suit.
     Very little aspects of the white tie ensemble have any variation; at one time, black waistcoats were alright to wear, but that fell out of style in the 1920s, and since then, black has been reserved for the tuxedo(although, rarely, a white waistcoat can be worn with a normal tuxedo), and white with tails, as it gives a nicer looking line. 

Examples of Full Dress Tails and The Tuxedo late 1920s or early 1930s

     Another thing that gives a nicer looking line is the waistcoat not going below the tailcoat. When this is done, there is no break in the line of color, and the black and white are very elegantly put together. While this is not the strictest of rules, it is generally frowned upon, and few have worn longer waistcoats since the early 1920s. The trend has come back though, only due to poor designing for rentals and other formal companies.  
     I used to own a set of modern tails myself, and there is a stark difference between that and vintage. One of the greatest differences is with the flow of the garment itself; the wool used in older formalwear flows and has a relaxed quality. They will go to and fro as you walk, as opposed to being stiff. 

Me at 16; at my prom

Me at 19, at WWII Weekend in Reading, PA at the Mid-Atlantic Air Museum

     The tails I owned before hand were more of a rental quality, and I got rid of them eventually, in favor of a vintage set, which not only fit a lot better, but felt a lot better and look a lot better. I got a vintage shirt set too, which also looked a lot better and even new shoes. I basically replaced the whole set, except for the top hat, which I no longer have. 

A front view of the vintage set from the same year. 

     The set isn't perfect, and could use some adjustments, but it was a great improvement over my previous set. I got it for $35 on eBay, the tails that is, and another $30 for the waistcoat, shirt, collar and two bow ties. Altogether, it probably only cost me around $180 including the shoes.
     I need a new shirt though, and can probably get the same size, even though I'm now 21 and more fit. 
     If you notice in the picture above, I'm wearing a cummerbund; never do that; I only did because I had a college function I went to for fun with a couple friends dressed up, and the trousers that came with the tails had too short of a rise. I have since found new trousers(the WWII Weekend picture)and have vowed to never again do that. 

Fred Astaire

     That's what a tailcoat should look like, and my set now looks more like that; I need some altering or a new set, but I'll get there eventually! 

     I really do recommend the top hat by the way, and I just found out that Darcy sells them, here. If you don't want that kind, you can always opt for the silk collapsible top hat, or the opera hat as it is also known. I personally prefer the latter, but if you opt for the former, it can also be used for day wear, unlike the opera hat. If you want one of those, you can find some nice ones at Uniformalwearhouse or try eBay. Uniformalwearhouse is on the cheaper price end for collapsible silk top hats made new. 
   

Fred Astaire in Top Hat 1935

     Okay, so I've posted a lot of photos regularly throughout my blogs of Fred Astaire; not only was he an impeccable dresser who set style standards, he was an Old Hollywood actor. He is considered to be the greatest dancer of the 20th Century by many(Michael Jackson set Astaire as a role model for dancing and had immense respect for him; the two did meet in person as well), but he was also a fair singer and actor too. I highly recommend his autobiography, Steps In Time: An Autobiography. I read it and was tremendously ingratiated into an older culture and his experiences in the entertainment industry from Vaudeville to Hollywood. 
    
      He made the top hat, white tie and tails iconic throughout the 1930s and 40s, and is one of the most talented entertainers of all time. Funny enough, he really didn't care for wearing tails, although that may be due in part to his being a dancer wearing stiff clothing(the shirt), and having to change constantly from costume to costume(one of his favorite things he wore was his military U.S.O. uniform, because it was so simple and he rarely had to change from it). The biggest reason was probably because he had to wear the outfit so much, and got sick of the constant changing. He represented high society and was high society himself, rubbing elbows with English royalty and the upper crust of society. 
   
  His tailcoats were specially made for him so that he could have more moving room, and they were cut with the greatest of tailoring, fitting him perfectly and allowing him to dance. I highly recommend watching his movies, especially his 10 with Ginger Rogers. 

Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire

Astaire and Rogers in their last movie together, The Barkleys of Broadway 1949

     Just Youtube some of his dances, like "No Strings" or his famous ceiling dance, in which he was placed in a rotating room(which is where Inception got the idea for some of their scenes)and dances on the ceiling and walls. 
     He is definitely an icon of another era, and I highly encourage you to see his films. He's one of my favorite entertainers.
     Enough about Astaire though(except for pictures), let's get back to our main discussion.

     Your tails should come to about the back of your knees; they should never be too short, although some may be a little long, but this is okay, as it was the style at some points. The line of the trouser should never show, it should be covered up by the waistcoat, and the jacket is to never be taken off. It is also to be never buttoned, and doesn't even have the option to button on a correct version. Some older ones do have a buttoning option, but they are either much older, or not for a white tie affair(perhaps for a butler though?). When sitting down, either drape the tails over what you are sitting on, or place them to the side, but do not sit on them. 

     As I mentioned earlier, there is very little variation allowed in the white tie dress code, however, there are some things allowed to vary; your shirt collar can a little in design, as long as it is a wing(or straight up for earlier time periods), your shirt can have different, but slight, bib front designs, including the number of studs, the studs themselves can have many options as to what kind to wear, your bow tie can be of different shapes, but the most noticeable is the waistcoat. Unfortunately, this is also the most difficult to find any variation in now, unless you find vintage or you have it custom made(in which case, it must be made correctly, as a white tie dress code waistcoat). 

William Powell

     As you can see, William Powell's waistcoat is double breasted, a very nice, yet rare option now. There were a number of variations which no longer exist, although a good tailor might make one exist for you. 

1936 Ad for White Tie Waistcoats

     Above are just some of even more available variations of the day. There were many options for wear, and if you can find one in vintage in good condition, you've got yourself a rare find. I'm afraid the most common and almost impossible to not find one is the single breasted waistcoat with lapels. They are usually without variation in the lapels even. Be sure to get a high waisted waistcoat, and be sure that the waistcoat you get does not fall below your tailcoat front, or else the look will be off. 
     
     A place to find custom double breasted waistcoats is Duchess Clothier, and if you look towards the bottom of the page, where the formal waistcoat topic is, you can contact them about making one for you. Luxire Clothing is another place you can get bespoke marcella waistcoats.

Arrow Collar/Shirt Ad

     An accessory I'd consider essential to the tails, one that goes nicely with the waistcoat, is a pocket watch; a regular watch is too informal, but a pocket watch is formal enough. And a real one, not one with a silly design or character(s) on it. It's a nice little something extra to add on to it, and it's really great getting to pull it out of your pocket and check the time. It has a very old world feel. You can either keep it in your waistcoat pocket(which I recommend), or you can keep it connected to something on one end of the chain and into your trouser pocket with the watch. Either way, you generally wear your pocket watch on the same side you would a watch, so the opposite of your dominate hand(since that's what's usually done). You can also get a dress knife on a chain, but too many chains isn't good, so keep it simple. A cane is another nice accessory, as well as gloves, although not necessary. 
     
    Vintage is probably your best buy with nearly everything, although I'd get a new shirt and collar, since many of the old ones are stained or hard to come by. Sometimes one can find a vintage shirt and/or collar, but it is very difficult. 

But not as difficult as Fred Astaire's dancing

      If you watch old movies, you'll likely see people dressed in top hat and tails. You'll get to see some of the variations in detail, but you'll really get to see a kind of elegance that has been lost, a time when people just dealt with putting aside some of their comfort in order to look nice for a few hours out of an evening. 
     
     In my experience, wearing tails is very fun, probably one of the best items in my wardrobe, perhaps even the best, as it is definitely a favorite. People will notice and will swoon and give you compliments. If you're a lone gent at a dance, all a lady has to see is a well put together set of evening tails, and you're set. I didn't receive a single no to anyone I asked to dance with me. Then again, I didn't when in a 1940s suit the next year, and the people are really friendly, but everyone noticed the tails. 
     
     And it might be because no one wears them anymore. I think this is an item which really needs to be brought back. Some of the only places that still require this dress code are countries in Europe for a royal ball or formal affair. 

William Powell & Kay Francis in Jewell Robbery 1932

     I don't think a comeback will be seen in the U.S. in the mainstream though, or of suits in general as they once were, but I think the person who wants something of quality and something that looks nice can opt for this, and really stand out as being the best dressed amongst their modern peers. 

     There is no modern dress code that stands any chance against evening tails from the 1930s, the height of men's fashion. There really isn't even a vintage one that does either.

     Some people might think they look ridiculous, or might feel that way, but they are well worth it. Once you try them on, you'll look great. 

     Also remember to make sure your hands are immaculately clean, since stark white doesn't do so well with skin oils or really anything except cleaning, starch and stark white. 

Myrna Loy, Astor and William Powell for The Thin Man

     I think I've covered just about everything you need to know regarding tails. Another site that is useful for advice is Into the Hidden Clouds. Gentleman's Gazette is another, along with The Black Tie Guide, Bricks In Suit(ignore the legos at the beginning)and Duchess Clothier. These are all good sites, very excellent sites actually, for even more advice and for looking around. 

     I strongly recommend getting tails, and if you so choose to do so, just take your time and put in your best effort. Only get things that fit you and suit you. If it's off, people will notice. If you rush, you are more likely to just get things you really don't want for a price that's too expensive. 

     I'm sure you'll be able to find something, and in no time you'll be dressed just like a gentleman of yesteryear and every head will be turning in your direction.

     Until then, good luck on finding your White Tie wardrobe! If you have any questions or comments, feel free to say something on here or on facebook!

David Niven

   

 

Going Civilian: Formal Attire- The Tuxedo

Clark Gable

     The only real kind of formalwear that has still survived over the years, the tuxedo draws its roots from the late 19th Century, as an alternative to wearing full dress tails at slightly less formal events.
     Even in the modern day, it remains a classic staple of men's elegance, and its basic form has remained relatively unchanged, save for some of the prom tuxedos out there.

     The tuxedo is cut very similarly to a suit, except it has no cuffs on the pants, has a stripe down the side of each leg, and the waistcoats are generally cut much lower, as is pictured above; that is, traditionally/properly cut waistcoats. Many new ones just use a suit type waistcoat, which hides most of the shirt rather than show it and the shirt studs off.

     A tuxedo waistcoat should be low cut, showing off the shirt, whether the shirt be a stiff bib or pleated. Many waistcoats are backless, to give more adjustment and to allow for more breathing to keep the wearer from being overheated. They will also generally have lapels with a matching satin or silk facing, although sometimes have a design or no facing. Very rarely do they not have lapels. Pictured throughout the article are various examples of waistcoats, mostly single breasted, although double breasted is also appropriate. Cummerbunds can be appropriate with the right tuxedo, but a waistcoat is usually preferable. Double breasted jackets can go without a waistcoat or a cummerbund, as no one will see them under the jacket, since double breasted jackets are to remain buttoned at all times.

     Trousers should be high waisted with a single silk or satin stripe down the side. They should also be held up by button suspenders, not a belt. A belt throws off the look, and is also not formal enough. Suspenders will hold the trousers in place without them dropping at all. They'll also be more comfortable. Be wary of clip on suspenders, as they may either slip off or even damage your trousers. Trousers should also not be cuffed; cuffed trousers are not formal, and tuxedos never under any circumstances have cuffs. They can however have pleats, double or single, or can go without altogether. Pleats will give more room though, so you might want to opt for them. They'll also look nice if they're done properly.
 

William Powell in The Thin Man 1934

   Tuxedos also have satin or silk facings, pleated or bib front shirts(made from cotton, linen or poplin usually) with either a wing collar(pictured above) or a lay down collar. They are always worn with a bow tie too. Tuxedos are worn with black bow ties, although since dress codes are no longer as strict, they can be worn with other colors; I am of the opinion that black looks best though. Bow ties also come in different styles, diamond, butterfly, square, etc.

   The shoes that should be worn are patent leather, to give an extra shine, and they should be plain toed, meaning no designs on the shoe. The reason is that formalwear is supposed to be understated and simple, which is part of what makes it elegant.

Above: Ingrid Bergman & Cary Grant; Below: Claude Rains, Cary Grant & Ingrid Bergman.
Alfred Hitchcock's Notorious 1946

     One of the great differences between the tuxedo of yesteryear and that of modern times, is that many men owned their own tuxedo, and the materials were generally a lot better. Pockets were real and there weren't any shortcuts. Fast forward to the present era, and most look a bit generic, with bad shape and of poor quality. Most are of the rental variety. People rent rather than own since tuxedo wearing is not as common as it used to be; then again, suit wearing isn't all that common anymore either. Men would wear tuxedos to clubs, cocktail parties and social events, even to the movies; now it seems it's a big thing when a man wears a tuxedo to his wedding.

Daniel Craig in Casino Royale 2006 

Clark Gable

   






                                                             
     I highly recommending owning a tuxedo. It's useful, and you'll save money; rather than spend more money renting over and over, you can just have one to own. One that can be more comfortable and of a better material, all the while flattering you more with a better cut.
     There are different materials for tuxedos, and I would veer away from any synthetics, polyester being the most common. Wool is a most excellent choice, and older tuxedos, pre-1960s usually, are made of a type of wool that is close to flannel or overcoat wool. They're generally of a bit heavier wool, with no vents, and drape very nicely. A great place to find vintage tuxedos is eBay. They have a lot, and they're typically cheaper than vintage suits.

   

Adolphe Menjou 1920s

     When buying, there is something to take note; make sure the pants and jacket match, because if not, the wool might look different in texture, pattern and/or color. When a tuxedo is sold as an original set, it means that the both the jacket and trousers were taken from the same wool. It is easier to tell the difference with newer tuxedos though, as much of the wool for the older ones looks virtually the same, sometimes with only differences in shading. A lot of black wool has a brownish tint to it...which leads me to my next point of note.
     There is something to take into consideration, and that is midnight blue. In natural light, it appears to be a dark blue, but under artificial light, it is blacker than black, and avoids the brown or grey tints other tuxedos may have. Since the tuxedo was made to be worn in the evening, under artificial light, this isn't really much of a problem; it's just that sometimes people will see your tuxedo as blue rather than black, but you should be fine when attending an event.

Tuxedo in Midnight Blue

Daniel Craig in Skyfall as James Bond

Leonardo DiCaprio

Robert Downey Jr. as Tony Stark in Iron Man

     As you can see, there is a difference in how Daniel Craig's tuxedo looks from how Leonardo DiCaprio's tuxedo. Craig's is more noticeably blue, as is the one above it, while Robert Downey Jr.'s and DiCaprio's are just black(although Downey's might be midnight blue, but since he's under artificial lighting, it's hard to tell). What is recommended is to have two tuxedos; one in midnight blue and another in plain black, so that you'll be able to wear one if it's a little light out, and another if you'll just be indoors at night.

     Also take note that the way most tuxedos are worn now is much less formal than those of yesteryear. Notice that the shirts are much more relaxed, to the point of not even having a dressed front or studs sometimes, rather than pleats or a bib. Also notice that many opt out of wearing a pocket square or hankie. Some don't even bother wearing tuxedo shoes. Speaking of which...

     The best quality tuxedo shoes will be patent leather. Cheaper shoes will be more uncomfortable and won't last as long. Although real patent leather shoes will be more expensive($348 from Brooks Brothers), there are some that can be found for a reasonable price. I've found Brooks Brothers used shoes on eBay for only $75, but the average will be $100-$120. Vintage patent leather shoes are something to look for as well. I would either go for that or Brooks Brothers; the older because they'll be real and look nice if in good condition, Brooks Brothers because they use old world shoe making process, and they're made in England for Brooks Brothers by Peal and Co. Church's also makes excellent quality shoes from England; they used to make some of the shoes for Brooks Brothers actually.
     Tuxedo shoes should be plain toed and round with minimal design. This is a must for formalwear, since the point is to be simple and elegant.

Gary Cooper

Grafton Wing Collar From Darcy Clothing

Butterfly Wing Collar From Darcy Clothing

     Traditional tuxedo collars are detachable, and go with stiff front bib shirts. The shirt front and cuffs are starched heavily just as the collars are. This is rarely seen today, but these shirts and collars can still be purchased, either through vintage or through English clothing makers such as Darcy Clothing. Once can opt for a soft shirt with an attached collar, but the stiff shirt really does look best. It may not be as comfortable, but it looks much much neater than the soft shirts. There is a certain sharpness and elegance held by the wing collar, especially a stiff one, and I definitely think it's worth the mild discomfort(mostly with neck movement, as it forces a more straight posture). The problem with getting stiff collars or shirts(and the waistcoats for tails)is that there is only one place in the United States that still cleans and re-starches them, the rest are all in England. The good thing is that you don't need them re-starched or even cleaned all that often, but when you do, you should probably find out from Darcy Clothing as to where to go. Delightfully, Darcy Clothing makes washable versions of the collars and shirt, so you don't have to do so much in order to get them cleaned.

Stiff Front Shirt From Darcy Clothing

Arrow Shirt Ad 1933

A Very Uncommon Turn Down Collar Starched Shirt

Arrow Shirt Ad 1913

Myrna Loy & William Powell in The Thin Man 1934
     

    Now, if you're looking for some earlier period collars, you might want to try Darcy Clothing for more, or Gentleman's Emporium. The former has better collars for just a little more money, but the latter is worth looking at since they specialize in Victorian, Edwardian and even some Regency Era clothing. Another I recently discovered is RJW Shirts, where they not only have collars, but shirts, bib fronts and detachable starched cuffs.

High Imperial Stiff Collar from Darcy Clothing

"Deco" Starched Bib Front Shirt from RJW Shirts

      Darcy Clothing also sells collar studs, which you'll need for your detachable collar, for both front and back, to attach it to the shirt. Something you will most likely need though are shirt studs. If you notice on each of the pictures, nearly every tuxedo shirt is fashioned with shirt studs, also called dress studs. This is because traditional tuxedo shirts have no buttons of their own and must be fastened with studs. Usually they match the cufflinks, but they don't have to. There was once a time when it was common to have a whole set of shirt studs, cufflinks and waistcoat studs/buttons, but since traditional waistcoats have become less common, it is much harder to find waistcoat studs.
     Newer shirts come with regular buttons as well as studs, but no one really wears regular buttons; they look out of place in formalwear, kind of ugly actually, so it's best to just cut the buttons off. The standard is to have black onyx with a gold or silver trim.  These aren't the only studs out there, but everyone should own at least one set; for more vintage sets, a company called Swank used to make some pretty nice men's jewelry; for high end and more expensive sets, I'd go with Krementz. They use real stones with gold and silver, and can be very expensive, but are some of the best sets you can find.

Diamond Bow Tie

Butterfly Bow Tie

Square Bow Tie

   

     I've decided to include three of the different sorts of bow ties you'll come across. There are other kinds, particularly the skinny bow tie, but these will be most suitable  for a formal occasion. I personally prefer the diamond bow tie, although I'm also partial to the butterfly bow tie. Getting a self-tie bow tie is highly recommended. It actually isn't that hard to learn, and once you do learn, you get the hang of it pretty quickly. The bow tie is simpler to tie than most seem to think it is, and is definitely worth investing in. 
     
     However, if you really don't want to do that, you can always get a pre-tied variation; I would recommend getting both, one to practice tying and one to wear while you learn to practice, to eventually replace. The Tie Bar has a nice selection of bow ties, and is the only place I've found where you can find the grosgrain bow tie(grosgrain is the ribbed silk). Your bow tie should match the lapels of your jacket in material(just as the stripe down the trouser leg should, and the facings on the waistcoat), so it is essential to find a bow tie that matches.
     Brooks Brothers also has a selection of formalwear, including bow ties, which is appropriate. They can be a bit expensive though, so you might want to try somewhere else or something vintage.

     Something else to mention are the lapels of the jacket; most tuxedos now have a notch lapel.

Notch Lapel Jacket

     This is technically not correct; notched lapels are supposed to be for more casual wear, on suits, but have become a mainstream by designers now. Designers don't necessarily follow rules of dress, so this tends to happen a lot more now. Very rarely will you find a vintage tuxedo jacket with notch lapels. Not many were made. The preferred lapel to wear is the peaked lapel.

Peak Lapel Eton Jacket

     In general, peaked lapels flatter a man's shape more with the V shape on men that they accentuate. They are a staple of older men's suits, and a must for formalwear. Peaked lapels are more formal than any other lapel. They aren't the only acceptable kind of lapel though, as the shawl collar, although less formal, is also acceptable.

Shawl Collar Tuxedo

     The shawl collar tuxedo is also referred to as a dinner jacket, usually in the United States. In Britain, a dinner jacket simply refers to a tuxedo.

     In America though, this usually comes to mind:

Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca 1942

Sean Connery as James Bond

Harrison Ford in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom 1984

      The dinner jacket has come to symbolize the summer tuxedo, regardless of lapels. The white, cream or ivory colored jackets are the most popular of its kind, although at one time there were many different colors. Now though it has slimmed down to a basic sort of color. The black shawl dinner jacket is worn, but not as often as its lighter contemporary.

    The dinner jacket gives off a very suave and classic vibe. I would highly recommend getting one, as they are a lot cooler than their black counterparts during the summer.

Fred Astaire, Eleanor Powell & George Murphy in Broadway Melody of 1940 1940

     While the white/cream/ivory dinner jacket is typically worn with black trousers, it can also be worn with trousers of a matching color, as seen above and below.

Fred Astaire and Eleanor Powell

Dinner Jacket with Matching Trousers 1933

     The nice thing about the dinner jacket is that there can be a lot of variation to it. One can wear all kinds of different things with it. It's probably the loosest of the formalwear dress codes, which makes sense since it is for warmer weather. Once can interchange jacket or trouser color, waistcoat color and the styles of jackets and waistcoats. Cummerbunds are also acceptable, and can look quite nice, although I still prefer a waistcoat, especially if you have a pocket watch to go with it.

Humphrey Bogart

Harrison Ford

     It is also very appropriate to wear a lay down collar, but the wing collar is still an acceptable choice.

Some different jacket styles from 1940

    Well I've basically covered everything about tuxedos. A very good site to look at for history and what is what is The Black Tie Guide, from which I pulled some information and images. Another great site for some of the what to dos and how tos is Duchess Clothier. The section on tuxedos is pretty fantastic, and I highly recommend checking both of these sites out.
 
     I've given other links which I also recommend, for purchasing items and just getting a good example. I know I covered a lot of information and this is one of my longer posts, but I really hoped it helped.

     The tuxedo is a very elegant form of dress, and has gone through some changes over the years, but one can strive to make their own tuxedo perfect for them. I guarantee many heads will turn at a formal event should you choose to get one, especially a vintage/classic tuxedo!

     If you have any questions, comments or suggestions, feel free to post in the comments below or on facebook!