Going Civilian: Formal Attire- The Tuxedo

Clark Gable

     The only real kind of formalwear that has still survived over the years, the tuxedo draws its roots from the late 19th Century, as an alternative to wearing full dress tails at slightly less formal events.
     Even in the modern day, it remains a classic staple of men's elegance, and its basic form has remained relatively unchanged, save for some of the prom tuxedos out there.

     The tuxedo is cut very similarly to a suit, except it has no cuffs on the pants, has a stripe down the side of each leg, and the waistcoats are generally cut much lower, as is pictured above; that is, traditionally/properly cut waistcoats. Many new ones just use a suit type waistcoat, which hides most of the shirt rather than show it and the shirt studs off.

     A tuxedo waistcoat should be low cut, showing off the shirt, whether the shirt be a stiff bib or pleated. Many waistcoats are backless, to give more adjustment and to allow for more breathing to keep the wearer from being overheated. They will also generally have lapels with a matching satin or silk facing, although sometimes have a design or no facing. Very rarely do they not have lapels. Pictured throughout the article are various examples of waistcoats, mostly single breasted, although double breasted is also appropriate. Cummerbunds can be appropriate with the right tuxedo, but a waistcoat is usually preferable. Double breasted jackets can go without a waistcoat or a cummerbund, as no one will see them under the jacket, since double breasted jackets are to remain buttoned at all times.

     Trousers should be high waisted with a single silk or satin stripe down the side. They should also be held up by button suspenders, not a belt. A belt throws off the look, and is also not formal enough. Suspenders will hold the trousers in place without them dropping at all. They'll also be more comfortable. Be wary of clip on suspenders, as they may either slip off or even damage your trousers. Trousers should also not be cuffed; cuffed trousers are not formal, and tuxedos never under any circumstances have cuffs. They can however have pleats, double or single, or can go without altogether. Pleats will give more room though, so you might want to opt for them. They'll also look nice if they're done properly.
 

William Powell in The Thin Man 1934

   Tuxedos also have satin or silk facings, pleated or bib front shirts(made from cotton, linen or poplin usually) with either a wing collar(pictured above) or a lay down collar. They are always worn with a bow tie too. Tuxedos are worn with black bow ties, although since dress codes are no longer as strict, they can be worn with other colors; I am of the opinion that black looks best though. Bow ties also come in different styles, diamond, butterfly, square, etc.

   The shoes that should be worn are patent leather, to give an extra shine, and they should be plain toed, meaning no designs on the shoe. The reason is that formalwear is supposed to be understated and simple, which is part of what makes it elegant.

Above: Ingrid Bergman & Cary Grant; Below: Claude Rains, Cary Grant & Ingrid Bergman.
Alfred Hitchcock's Notorious 1946

     One of the great differences between the tuxedo of yesteryear and that of modern times, is that many men owned their own tuxedo, and the materials were generally a lot better. Pockets were real and there weren't any shortcuts. Fast forward to the present era, and most look a bit generic, with bad shape and of poor quality. Most are of the rental variety. People rent rather than own since tuxedo wearing is not as common as it used to be; then again, suit wearing isn't all that common anymore either. Men would wear tuxedos to clubs, cocktail parties and social events, even to the movies; now it seems it's a big thing when a man wears a tuxedo to his wedding.

Daniel Craig in Casino Royale 2006 

Clark Gable

   






                                                             
     I highly recommending owning a tuxedo. It's useful, and you'll save money; rather than spend more money renting over and over, you can just have one to own. One that can be more comfortable and of a better material, all the while flattering you more with a better cut.
     There are different materials for tuxedos, and I would veer away from any synthetics, polyester being the most common. Wool is a most excellent choice, and older tuxedos, pre-1960s usually, are made of a type of wool that is close to flannel or overcoat wool. They're generally of a bit heavier wool, with no vents, and drape very nicely. A great place to find vintage tuxedos is eBay. They have a lot, and they're typically cheaper than vintage suits.

   

Adolphe Menjou 1920s

     When buying, there is something to take note; make sure the pants and jacket match, because if not, the wool might look different in texture, pattern and/or color. When a tuxedo is sold as an original set, it means that the both the jacket and trousers were taken from the same wool. It is easier to tell the difference with newer tuxedos though, as much of the wool for the older ones looks virtually the same, sometimes with only differences in shading. A lot of black wool has a brownish tint to it...which leads me to my next point of note.
     There is something to take into consideration, and that is midnight blue. In natural light, it appears to be a dark blue, but under artificial light, it is blacker than black, and avoids the brown or grey tints other tuxedos may have. Since the tuxedo was made to be worn in the evening, under artificial light, this isn't really much of a problem; it's just that sometimes people will see your tuxedo as blue rather than black, but you should be fine when attending an event.

Tuxedo in Midnight Blue

Daniel Craig in Skyfall as James Bond

Leonardo DiCaprio

Robert Downey Jr. as Tony Stark in Iron Man

     As you can see, there is a difference in how Daniel Craig's tuxedo looks from how Leonardo DiCaprio's tuxedo. Craig's is more noticeably blue, as is the one above it, while Robert Downey Jr.'s and DiCaprio's are just black(although Downey's might be midnight blue, but since he's under artificial lighting, it's hard to tell). What is recommended is to have two tuxedos; one in midnight blue and another in plain black, so that you'll be able to wear one if it's a little light out, and another if you'll just be indoors at night.

     Also take note that the way most tuxedos are worn now is much less formal than those of yesteryear. Notice that the shirts are much more relaxed, to the point of not even having a dressed front or studs sometimes, rather than pleats or a bib. Also notice that many opt out of wearing a pocket square or hankie. Some don't even bother wearing tuxedo shoes. Speaking of which...

     The best quality tuxedo shoes will be patent leather. Cheaper shoes will be more uncomfortable and won't last as long. Although real patent leather shoes will be more expensive($348 from Brooks Brothers), there are some that can be found for a reasonable price. I've found Brooks Brothers used shoes on eBay for only $75, but the average will be $100-$120. Vintage patent leather shoes are something to look for as well. I would either go for that or Brooks Brothers; the older because they'll be real and look nice if in good condition, Brooks Brothers because they use old world shoe making process, and they're made in England for Brooks Brothers by Peal and Co. Church's also makes excellent quality shoes from England; they used to make some of the shoes for Brooks Brothers actually.
     Tuxedo shoes should be plain toed and round with minimal design. This is a must for formalwear, since the point is to be simple and elegant.

Gary Cooper

Grafton Wing Collar From Darcy Clothing

Butterfly Wing Collar From Darcy Clothing

     Traditional tuxedo collars are detachable, and go with stiff front bib shirts. The shirt front and cuffs are starched heavily just as the collars are. This is rarely seen today, but these shirts and collars can still be purchased, either through vintage or through English clothing makers such as Darcy Clothing. Once can opt for a soft shirt with an attached collar, but the stiff shirt really does look best. It may not be as comfortable, but it looks much much neater than the soft shirts. There is a certain sharpness and elegance held by the wing collar, especially a stiff one, and I definitely think it's worth the mild discomfort(mostly with neck movement, as it forces a more straight posture). The problem with getting stiff collars or shirts(and the waistcoats for tails)is that there is only one place in the United States that still cleans and re-starches them, the rest are all in England. The good thing is that you don't need them re-starched or even cleaned all that often, but when you do, you should probably find out from Darcy Clothing as to where to go. Delightfully, Darcy Clothing makes washable versions of the collars and shirt, so you don't have to do so much in order to get them cleaned.

Stiff Front Shirt From Darcy Clothing

Arrow Shirt Ad 1933

A Very Uncommon Turn Down Collar Starched Shirt

Arrow Shirt Ad 1913

Myrna Loy & William Powell in The Thin Man 1934
     

    Now, if you're looking for some earlier period collars, you might want to try Darcy Clothing for more, or Gentleman's Emporium. The former has better collars for just a little more money, but the latter is worth looking at since they specialize in Victorian, Edwardian and even some Regency Era clothing. Another I recently discovered is RJW Shirts, where they not only have collars, but shirts, bib fronts and detachable starched cuffs.

High Imperial Stiff Collar from Darcy Clothing

"Deco" Starched Bib Front Shirt from RJW Shirts

      Darcy Clothing also sells collar studs, which you'll need for your detachable collar, for both front and back, to attach it to the shirt. Something you will most likely need though are shirt studs. If you notice on each of the pictures, nearly every tuxedo shirt is fashioned with shirt studs, also called dress studs. This is because traditional tuxedo shirts have no buttons of their own and must be fastened with studs. Usually they match the cufflinks, but they don't have to. There was once a time when it was common to have a whole set of shirt studs, cufflinks and waistcoat studs/buttons, but since traditional waistcoats have become less common, it is much harder to find waistcoat studs.
     Newer shirts come with regular buttons as well as studs, but no one really wears regular buttons; they look out of place in formalwear, kind of ugly actually, so it's best to just cut the buttons off. The standard is to have black onyx with a gold or silver trim.  These aren't the only studs out there, but everyone should own at least one set; for more vintage sets, a company called Swank used to make some pretty nice men's jewelry; for high end and more expensive sets, I'd go with Krementz. They use real stones with gold and silver, and can be very expensive, but are some of the best sets you can find.

Diamond Bow Tie

Butterfly Bow Tie

Square Bow Tie

   

     I've decided to include three of the different sorts of bow ties you'll come across. There are other kinds, particularly the skinny bow tie, but these will be most suitable  for a formal occasion. I personally prefer the diamond bow tie, although I'm also partial to the butterfly bow tie. Getting a self-tie bow tie is highly recommended. It actually isn't that hard to learn, and once you do learn, you get the hang of it pretty quickly. The bow tie is simpler to tie than most seem to think it is, and is definitely worth investing in. 
     
     However, if you really don't want to do that, you can always get a pre-tied variation; I would recommend getting both, one to practice tying and one to wear while you learn to practice, to eventually replace. The Tie Bar has a nice selection of bow ties, and is the only place I've found where you can find the grosgrain bow tie(grosgrain is the ribbed silk). Your bow tie should match the lapels of your jacket in material(just as the stripe down the trouser leg should, and the facings on the waistcoat), so it is essential to find a bow tie that matches.
     Brooks Brothers also has a selection of formalwear, including bow ties, which is appropriate. They can be a bit expensive though, so you might want to try somewhere else or something vintage.

     Something else to mention are the lapels of the jacket; most tuxedos now have a notch lapel.

Notch Lapel Jacket

     This is technically not correct; notched lapels are supposed to be for more casual wear, on suits, but have become a mainstream by designers now. Designers don't necessarily follow rules of dress, so this tends to happen a lot more now. Very rarely will you find a vintage tuxedo jacket with notch lapels. Not many were made. The preferred lapel to wear is the peaked lapel.

Peak Lapel Eton Jacket

     In general, peaked lapels flatter a man's shape more with the V shape on men that they accentuate. They are a staple of older men's suits, and a must for formalwear. Peaked lapels are more formal than any other lapel. They aren't the only acceptable kind of lapel though, as the shawl collar, although less formal, is also acceptable.

Shawl Collar Tuxedo

     The shawl collar tuxedo is also referred to as a dinner jacket, usually in the United States. In Britain, a dinner jacket simply refers to a tuxedo.

     In America though, this usually comes to mind:

Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca 1942

Sean Connery as James Bond

Harrison Ford in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom 1984

      The dinner jacket has come to symbolize the summer tuxedo, regardless of lapels. The white, cream or ivory colored jackets are the most popular of its kind, although at one time there were many different colors. Now though it has slimmed down to a basic sort of color. The black shawl dinner jacket is worn, but not as often as its lighter contemporary.

    The dinner jacket gives off a very suave and classic vibe. I would highly recommend getting one, as they are a lot cooler than their black counterparts during the summer.

Fred Astaire, Eleanor Powell & George Murphy in Broadway Melody of 1940 1940

     While the white/cream/ivory dinner jacket is typically worn with black trousers, it can also be worn with trousers of a matching color, as seen above and below.

Fred Astaire and Eleanor Powell

Dinner Jacket with Matching Trousers 1933

     The nice thing about the dinner jacket is that there can be a lot of variation to it. One can wear all kinds of different things with it. It's probably the loosest of the formalwear dress codes, which makes sense since it is for warmer weather. Once can interchange jacket or trouser color, waistcoat color and the styles of jackets and waistcoats. Cummerbunds are also acceptable, and can look quite nice, although I still prefer a waistcoat, especially if you have a pocket watch to go with it.

Humphrey Bogart

Harrison Ford

     It is also very appropriate to wear a lay down collar, but the wing collar is still an acceptable choice.

Some different jacket styles from 1940

    Well I've basically covered everything about tuxedos. A very good site to look at for history and what is what is The Black Tie Guide, from which I pulled some information and images. Another great site for some of the what to dos and how tos is Duchess Clothier. The section on tuxedos is pretty fantastic, and I highly recommend checking both of these sites out.
 
     I've given other links which I also recommend, for purchasing items and just getting a good example. I know I covered a lot of information and this is one of my longer posts, but I really hoped it helped.

     The tuxedo is a very elegant form of dress, and has gone through some changes over the years, but one can strive to make their own tuxedo perfect for them. I guarantee many heads will turn at a formal event should you choose to get one, especially a vintage/classic tuxedo!

     If you have any questions, comments or suggestions, feel free to post in the comments below or on facebook!