Going Civilian: The Hat-Part II

George Raft

     As we continue our discussion on hats, I would just like to throw in a little something about the materials for felt type hats. Traditionally, they have been made of fur, and today, the best quality ones are still made from fur. This doesn't mean they kill an animal though. They just need the fur to crush, so there's no harm done! Fur is the best quality, certainly better than wool felt, and it weathers better too. If you should purchase an older hat, it'll most likely be made of some type of fur. Rabbit fur is a common one. Fur also feels a lot nicer than wool; it's smoother while the wool has a more course feel to it. Generally a fur hat will be able to be shaped more than a wool one; they have a softer quality. Modern fur hats cost a lot more ($100-$250 typically) though, especially more than their wool counterparts (usually $35-$80), but sometimes you can find some nice deals. Scala has some decent fur felt hats (I've found them for as low as $40), but if you want a hat that lasts, Stetson is the place to go, especially vintage Stetsons. Other hats made by hat companies no longer business are typically of good quality too. 

     Other than that, just find your hat size; and I don't  mean small, medium or large. Find specific sizes, like a 7 1/4 or 59 cm. Sizing can vary from company to company, but it is still good to get your head measured, or just find a hat that fits and find out the size of the hat. It is also helpful to know what a small, medium or large is in actual measurements for a company's hat size. For instance, one company might size a large as a 7 1/4, while another may at a 7 3/8 or a 7 1/2. Now that there's been some talk on materials and sizes, let's get back to the hats themselves.

The Bowler/Derby

Ralph Fiennes in The Avengers 1998

     Another hat which has seemed to fall out of fashion is the bowler, also known as the derby. Once worn quite extensively by gentleman, it's popularity waned by the 1940s and haven't really been seen since the 1950s in the United States. Once a staple of a gentleman, it has now become more of a past icon. Typically in black, although also worn in colors such as brown or grey, it is also a more formal hat, and is business appropriate, as well as formal appropriate. Some were known as hard hats because they had steel in the top; this was originally because of the equestrian roots, as they had replaced top hats as the hat choice for horse riders. They have a very English feel to them, an other worldly, and are still elegant. Not everyone can pull off wearing one, but I feel that many can. They're a nice hat to own and certainly handy since they don't get in the way, especially if you have the hard top version. There are few things that say "gentleman" so instantly if worn correctly...if not, then perhaps a cockney accent is due with some very worn, oversized clothing.

Prince William (Left)

     I think a revival of this hat is due, and if one wants an alternative to a homburg for a more business type suit, this is the hat to go for. It has no indentation on the top unlike a homburg and the brim isn't as curled up either.It gives a nice simple look for a man, yet one that creates an atmosphere of business; perhaps that is due to its association with British bankers.

Fred Astaire & Ginger Rogers in Swing Time 1936

Brendan Coyle on the set of  Downton Abbey

Brendan Coyle in Downton Abbey

Brendan Coyle and Maria Doyle Kennedy in Downton Abbey

The reason I have included so many photos of the bowler is to get the different angles. The fedora is easier to get just by seeing a picture of it, but hats like the homburg or bowler can be more difficult to capture in one photo, especially since there are slight variations in style. While this may be true for photos, in person, people will be able to see your hat quite well. Comments may vary on it, but most people will at least find it interesting, as there aren't many who chose to wear this hat anymore since its fall into obscurity. 

The Boater/Skimmer

Maurice Chavalier

The boater hat, sometimes known as a skimmer, is a hat made from straw. It's primary use is for spring and summer wear, as the fur and felt hats become too hot for such weather. There was such a time when every man put away his felt hats and donned his boater. They seemed to be quite popular right into the 1940s as a regular summer hat, back when people also wore summer suits too. They are still a good investment for anyone looking for a cooler summer hat which can be worn with dressier clothing. In fact, the boater has the same level of formality of a homburg has, which means wearing one with a tuxedo is okay.

 They're a bit more difficult to find now a days, but they can be purchased online for around $100-$175, the latter being a bit steep. There's a general store near me that orders them, so when I have a bit more money, I think I'll get one. I've wanted one for a while, and actually did own one from the 1900s or 1910s, but it wasn't very sturdy, so I gave it to a friend. It also had a different weave for the straw than most, as most look about the same, but there are some variations, they're just hard to find. Most of the variations that are to be found are in the brim and crown size, which I recommend to get a large brim, for more protection from the sun.

Fred Astaire

     Not only are boaters stylish, they are practical. They shield you from the sun and cool your head by letting air pass through  the hat, letting it breath. Although they are made of straw, they are very sturdy hats, and with the right care, will last a long time. The ribbons on them can represent school colors, match a tie or other article of clothing, or it can be more formal with a plain black band, as well as allowing it to go with most anything. Most have some sort of stripe variation, since they are spring and summer hats.

     As men have not only waned in wearing hats, they have waned in wearing summer dress as well, which has doubly contributed to the boater becoming obsolete, which is sad, because it's such a nice hat, and so practical. While there are other straw hats for warm weather, the boater is the most distinct and probably the best made. It's the only one of the bunch that can be worn with formalwear, as other summer hats are too casual, and also be worn with a suit.

Other Summer Hat Styles

1941 Hat Ad

While the boater may be the most prominent of summer hats, there are yet many other styles, most notably the panama hat. These are much more casual than a boater and suitable for wear with more casual outfits. Many variations of these exist, as well as dead on look alikes, as the styles haven't really changed for summer hats that much, with the exception of some newer ones with shorter crowns and brims, but look alikes to the ones in these ads aren't all that hard to find. The panama seems to have remained relatively unchanged altogether.

1949 Hat Ad

     

Panama Hat

The Top Hat

Fred Astaire

     One of the oldest hat styles that is still around, although very rarely worn, the top hat is the only appropriate head wear for morning or evening tails. It is also appropriate for 19th Century wear. Many modern top hats are made of felt, some fur felt, but the ideal top hat is made of either silk or beaver fur. Beaver fur is the older and requires more maintenance; silk was introduced with the collapsible opera hats, top hats that were made to be pressed down till flat, and then with a sturdy tap, pop back into shape. Doing this repeatedly will wrinkle the silk a little, but if one chooses to only do it when necessary, your hat should be fine. 

English Beaver Fur Top Hat

      Beaver fur top hats are very difficult to find, as nearly all of them are originals. They aren't really produced anymore, save for maybe one or two places, so this means that you'll have to pay a pretty penny, for one used in good condition, or one made new. They have a very excellent sheen, more so than their silk counterparts. They are also the correct top hat to wear with morning formal wear, unless one is to wear a grey fur felt top hat. 

Audrey Hepburn & Rex Harrison in My Fair Lady 1964

Jeremy Brett in My Fair Lady 1964

      The grey fur felt is a very nice choice, especially when clad in all grey, but can also work for charcoal. For an older look though, one should find a beaver fur look alike, which also exist.

     There are very nice silk top hats though, and the sheen is quite nice from them; I used to own one, but it was somewhat too small, so I sold it. The opera hats tend to be on the shorter side, however, there are taller ones that can be found. They are also still made, although rare, since most are handmade. The factories that used to produced them have closed down. They will also cost a pretty penny for both old and new, and there are some satin look alikes, but if you keep your eye out, you can find a well priced silk top hat. I know because I found mine for $90! 

This was mine; in nearly perfect condition! 

Frank Morgan

                                                                           The collapsible silk top hat is the ideal hat for evening tails, as it can not only be easily stored, but it also has a very nice sheen. Brushed beaver top hats are still appropriate, but much harder to find and at a higher maintenance to keep up. If you're up to purchasing one though, I'd expect the maintenance to not be very much of an issue. 

     Once the top hat was the staple piece of a gentleman's wardrobe, being the main hat for both day and evening wear, whether it be out and about doing business or a night out on the town. From a formal ball to simply going to work, men wore the top hat just about as often as men would later wear the fedora. The top hate gave way to other, less cumbersome hats that were easier to store or carry, but has remained in its place as the most formal hat a person could wear, even to this day. 

Jeremy Brett as Sherlock Holmes

     Now that I've talked about the basics of hats, it's high time that you start looking for the hat(s) you want! I didn't cover every hat that there is, just the ones I thought were the main, and I haven't covered caps either(which I may in the future), but this should be enough information to get you pretty well started on your journey finding hats. The best places to look are at local antique and vintage shops, eBay, etsy, Ruby Lane various English clothing sites and makers and reenacting events where there are vendors. Stay tuned for more posts; I plan to talk about formal dress sometime soon, as well as shoes, shirts and shirt accessories. I'm sure all of you are probably sick of hearing about hats, so I'll save the article on caps for a little later; for now, I shall just leave, tipping my hat! If you have any comments or questions, feel free to comment here or on facebook!