Going Civilian: What To Look For In A Suit

Rope 1948
Left To Right: John Dall, James Stewart, and Farley Granger

     Knowing what to look for in a suit is very important; if you know what measurements to look for and what materials, you can have the difference between having a well fitting suit of good quality that's comfortable or getting an ill fitting suit of poor quality that will leave you wishing you didn't buy it in the first place. 

     Now, as it has already been mentioned before, researching your impression is very important, but general knowledge on clothing is also very important. It helps a lot in making a decision, even with modern clothes. You should know your jacket sizes in general, like a 38S jacket, and a 32-30 trouser size for example. 38 is the size of the jacket, the chest, and the S is for Short, the sleeve length. R is for Regular, and L for Long. The 32-30 refers to a 32 waist(which, may vary depending on the rise of your trousers)and a 30 inseam, the length from the inside of your trouser from your crotch to where the trousers end. Those are the measurements you'll come across the most. Others that you will come across are the measurements in inches from shoulder to shoulder, armpit to armpit, sleeve length and even jacket length(although this last one tends to come into play a lot less, since most jackets are the same length, and some are even cut to be a bit shorter).

     Modern measurements are somewhat different from traditional tailoring. Each era has slight variations, however, in more recent years, the differences have become more drastic: 

   At first glance, there are noticeable differences, but it can be a little hard to see the differences in the trousers and vest. 

          The red is the jacket, the blue the vest, and the yellow the trousers. The suit on the left has stronger shoulders, fuller legs, a higher waist, a higher set vest, and an overall neater look. The vest is also fully covering the shirt and is over the trousers, not exposing even a belt buckle. Also note that the jacket on the right is slightly shorter. Although the one on the right is supposed to have a relaxed look, a modern suit will generally be less comfortable than a traditionally cut one; the one on the left has more room for the legs and the groin, and while the cut is made to look close, it moves with the body. Older suits are also typically made of better, more breathable materials. In general, it'll give a nicer look and be more practical, as they were made for function as well as looks.

     This is because traditionally cut suits are made around what is called the Golden Ratio, the point around the waist/navel, which is based around the proportions of the human body.

     More modern suits are based on the physical halfway point. Typically older jackets are based on a proportionality that is generally considered to be the most attractive, as it does not lend to there being too much or too little on top half or bottom. The longer jacket with trousers that hug the hips rather than sit at the waist creates a disproportionate look, so when you're looking for suits and you should find one you're unsure of or you've found a modern suit, just remember to try to find something that is more flattering to the body. Even for finding a suit for a regular occasion, one based on the Golden Ratio is preferable. One should seek to avoid modern cuts if possible.

     Some other details to look for in a suit would be cuffs(not only are they more period, but they distribute the weight of the trousers lending to less wrinkling; as a side note, formal trousers are not cuffed, as it is a sign of their formality), pleats(done properly, they can look really nice, as well as help prevent wrinkling), wider legs, higher trouser waists, buttons made from horn or bone, and materials made from wool, cotton, linen or other non-synthetics. The lapels are generally wider and peaked(pointed, like the three in the very top picture), sometimes medium, but they won't be thin unless you go for a modern suit, or one from the late 1950s to late 1960s.

     Another note on older suits, is that they tend to be heavier. It has to do with the cloth per yard. A suit being heavier doesn't necessarily mean it is hotter or more uncomfortable though. If anything, the weight lends to comfort, and the drape of the garment, making it so that you won't have to iron your clothes quite as often as well. Pre-War(World War II) suits tend to use 17-21 ounces of cloth per yard, whereas Post-War suits tend to use 14-16. Further and further along, the cloth per yard becomes less, till you get to modern day with only 10-12 ounces of cloth per yard as a norm. In comparison, summer weighted suits usually use about 8, sometimes less. Heavier weighted suits have the advantage of being able to resist wear and tear better as well as make it feel like you're wearing actual clothing. They also don't require as much maintenance.

     Whatever your choices, always remember you can use your clothing for modern settings, not just costumes or period events. A nicely cut suit looks good, and older ones tend to look a lot better than modern. You'll be sure to be noticed in a positive way and stand out amongst others who will look much duller in comparison.

     All in all, you should be ready to find yourself a good suit with this and my previous posts on what to look for and what to do. I'm sure you'll be able to find something grand, and maybe you'll start building a wardrobe even! For more of that though, stay tuned for future posts on hats, shoes, overcoats, shirts, ties and other accessories!